Monday, March 30, 2015

Christmas Holidays: Wedding

Were you wondering what a traditional Ugandan wedding might look like? Well, look no further. Or rather, look here, and then feel free to look further. This is only one small experience from one limited perspective. I'm sure there are an infinite number of variations and subtleties to each and every wedding. But this is the one I witnessed.


In December, our music teacher from school had his traditional "introduction." This is part of the getting-married process in Ugandan culture, in tandem with the official church wedding. It's when they negotiate the bride price, the families are introduced, and they seal the deal, so to speak.


This event takes place in the bride's village, with all her family and neighbors. Since Mr. Ngirwa is Tanzanian, he had a small handful of close family that traveled to be with him for his introduction. Luckily for me, his work friends had the privilege of rounding out the numbers for the grooms side. 

We traveled out to the village on Saturday morning for the event. And it was WAY out in the village. Far, far, far, down dusty dirt track roads. My poor little car had quite a dust bath by the time we were done. We stopped only briefly to change into our "smart" dresses in the backroom/bedroom of a tiny hardware store on the side of the road. 

Upon arriving at the miniature fairgrounds that had been temporarily set up on the family farm, we were welcomed by color coordinated aunties who pinned identifying corsages to us. As part of the grooms party, we were welcomed into the grooms tent to sit and enjoy a gourd of millet beer. This is somehow similar to runny cream of wheat that is both sour and bitter. I'm not the biggest fan. But they were really cute, served in their individual hollowed out gourds with ribbon on the straws.  

After a "brief" introduction from the verbose MC, it was lunch time. And what a lunch it was. We feasted on a full Ugandan buffet, with matoke (steamed plantains), potatoes, rice, goat, beef, chicken, chapati, greens, and more. 

The ceremony started after the feasting. Since the agenda of the introduction is to decide on a bride price, the MC serves as the negotiator from the bride's side, along with a "disapproving" auntie, and the grooms side also sends a representative. A gift is given. Maybe crates of soda, maybe bags of rice, maybe the biggest sack of salt I've ever seen in my life. Then the auntie sends out some potential candidates, asking, "Do you see the girl you want? Is she one of these?" After many rounds of this, with gifts changing hands each time, and the poor rejected girls dancing in and out with smiles on their faces, (incidentally, this made me grateful for the role that bridesmaids play in our American wedding ceremony) the bride herself finally shows up. 
And as always, at least from any wedding I've ever been to, the looks on the faces of Mr. and Mrs. are pretty adorable. The grin that goes from ear to ear on the grooms face clearly indicates that she is the one. 
One thing I appreciated was that after the bride was picked out as the sought after girl, she got to go to the grooms tent and choose her intended groom. It's all for show, of course, part of the traditional ceremony, but I appreciated the gesture of giving the girl some say in the matter. 


After many speeches and introductions and gifts exchanging hands, the dancing began in earnest. A group of highly energetic older ladies came out with sticks and shouting, and started to jump like so many caffeinated kangaroos. Some of them had to be three times my age, but they were also jumping three times higher than I ever could. I was thoroughly impressed. 
Interesting side note...one of these ladies, clearly the boss-woman of the troupe, had a humongous, and clearly prosthetic, baby belly. Like she was ten and a half months pregnant with twin hippopotamuses. 
Apparently this was a joke. I didn't get it. 


So much dust was flying. And so much joy was in everyone's faces. It was really just lovely. Such a happy thing, weddings. I'm so glad I had the chance to witness this one first hand, and if the introduction party is any indication, this marriage is going to be quite a happy one. 




On the way back into town, Lee Erin and I had to stop at this lovely restaurant. Rollexes are so good, who wouldn't want a pimped out one? For those of you that don't know, here in Kampala, Rollex generally doesn't refer to luxury watches. It refers to the greasy and delicious street food: an omlette wrapped in a hot chapati. So good. And even better when you get to order Chipotle style and put whatever you want in your pimped out version. 

Sadly, this epitome of cultured cuisine is now gone. I'm glad we went when we had the change. Unfortunately I'm not at a loss as to where to get a pimped out Rollex. 


That was the conclusion of the first leg of my Christmas holidays. The next two soon to come.

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